0 hours on a FE390

[petem]

My Mojavi couldn't be any more secure than when it's hooked on using the clips. The clips are absolutely solid and I can't move them at all no matter how hard I pull on them. The only way they will move is by sliding them backwards toward the narrower part of the fender, which can't happen while the front straps are tight and even when I slacken off the front straps it still takes some effort to move the clips the first inch or so. The bags have been out on three rides so far and haven't moved at all, not even after tackling various obstacles and making contact with the odd bush/tree in passing.

You do have to have the adjusting strap between the clips tight enough - if you don't do that there isn't enough tension between the clips so they would be loose on the fender. I originally tightened the strap as much as I could with the clips a couple of inches back from where they were going to end up, so they were on a narrower part of the fender. Then when you tighten the front straps it pulls the clips further forward onto the wider part like driving a wedge between them and the tension between the clips is plenty to keep them in place.

Did you try it with some duck tape around the sides of the fender where the clips go? I only put it on to protect the plastic but maybe it's helping the clips to grip on too.

It might be ok to just wedge it under the back of the seat but unless you wedge part of the pouch under there too it would leave some of the bag hanging out over the gap in the right side panel where the end of the exhaust is. I have no idea whether there would be enough heat to damage the bag but I didn't want to take a risk so I kept it far enough forward that it's not quite over the gap. I guess you could add some sort of insulation over the gap if necessary.

One thing I wasn't clear about is whether you're still using the clips as well as wedging it under the seat? If not I'd worry because the clips are towards the back and keep the whole thing down, but if you've only wedged it at the front end and not used the clips then the back of the small pouch won't be secured and could flap up and down. Using the clips at the same time should stop that happening, though you might have to juggle with the strap tension to get them secure because you can't just pull the bags forward until the clips are tight like I do, given that the bag will stop when it hits the seat.

I guess one plus point of wedging it underneath is it makes the seat easier to get off because you can leave the bags in place.

[fizz]

A couple of questions for the gurus:

1. When I check my valves, what is the torque of the bolts on the black cover that you take off?
2. Do I need the special tool to lock it in place when checking the valves at TDC? If so, what is the part number, and is there a pic of where I put it?

Thanx in advance.
Regards
Fizz

P.S.
<necessary> (dont tell my wife) customisations so far (only have 3hrs on the bike, but am doing a single track 2 dayer in a fortnight to break-it in to 15 hrs):

Pivot pegz
In-tank fuel filter
Map power switch
B&B alloy bashplate
B&B alloy rear brake cylinder protector
B&B alloy counter sprocket protector
Force 4 alloy rear brake disk guard
Neoprene rear shock link PDS cover
Neoprene fork seal savers
Barkbusters
Plastic frame rail guards
Force 4 alloy radiator guards
12v Powerlet Accessory Plug
Folding mirrors
Ram ball mounts for accessories
52 tooth sprocket and longer chain to accomodate (as supplied in box)

[berglsmerg]

Hey fizz I do my rocker cover bolts to 10 nm, most m6 bolts go to this number. They will bottom out so just sung them up from there, get the feel on the left side first, then use a spanner on the right. Good luck trying to get a conventional socket onto the right hand side bolts, if you were really anal, you could source one of those little crows feet open ended socket turnouts ( sorry but I'm fugged if I know what they're really called)
As for locking it at TDC when you align the punch mark on the cam sprocket with the mark on the cam bearing housing it will stay there. There is a locking bolt on the RHS case towards the back, but the receiving hole in the crank is on the piss so it locks up a long way from TDC.

[DaleEO]

You can take a dremmel tool with a rotory file and grind two very small notches in the rear fender just deep enough to allow the clips to seat in them. I do the same with my moose front fender bag. This keeps the clips from moving even if they are not bow string tight, and will hold the bag in the further back position that you want.

Another alternative using the same tool is to make a slot in the fender that allows the clips to fit into, just inboard of the edge and they will never move.

Dale

[petem]

if you were really anal, you could source one of those little crows feet open ended socket turnouts ( sorry but I'm fugged if I know what they're really called)

You mean this sort of thing? http://www.cromwell.co.uk/NBE5551482G

You get a torque wrench with a spigot on the end that clips into the back of this. There are also full ring and simple open-ended spanner attachments. Not ****** cheap mind you, but they will go into places where a torque wrench with a normal socket on the end just won't fit.

[fizz]

May be of interest to someone:

Re the Giant Loop Mojave bag, I found its competitor, the Wolfman Enduro E-10 bags:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APz7nkND ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ctl2mj26 ... re=related

Wolfman E-10 stores 18 litres, Mojave bag 10.5 litres.

I am still erring on the Giant Loop Mojave bag - smaller capacity but big enough, less straps, sleek and simple and seperate integrated area for tools.

Regards
Fizz

[steve]

Useful list of essentials, except, ditch the neoprene seal savers, they will trap dust and grind away at the tubes. In my experience, around here, they cause more grief than they solve. This includes running my suspension workshops with Frank Pons of Biketek on average 4-5 times a year for the last 8 years.

Steve

[Davo]

This includes running my suspension workshops with Frank Pons of Biketek on average 4-5 times a year for the last 8 years.

Steve

Suspension workshops
Is there an entrance exam and are dumb folk from the city riding over powered Huserbergs allowed to attend? When is the next workshop?

[fizz]

warning: This is a blonde babe by the side of the road requiring help, type question:

I have a rear disk guard waiting to be put on that replaces the calliper carrier too - there are wierd rubber grommet thingies on the existing carrier to take off - how do these come off?

Thanks in advance
Fizz

[steve]

This includes running my suspension workshops with Frank Pons of Biketek on average 4-5 times a year for the last 8 years.

Steve

Suspension workshops
Is there an entrance exam and are dumb folk from the city riding over powered Huserbergs allowed to attend? When is the next workshop?

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12942&p=108997#p108997

[fizz]

warning: This is a blonde babe by the side of the road requiring help, type question:

I have a rear disk guard waiting to be put on that replaces the calliper carrier too - there are wierd rubber grommet thingies on the existing carrier to take off - how do these come off?

Thanks in advance
Fizz

Once I get the rear wheel off, whats next? Here is a picture of the two black lugs - does the big one circled on the left just pull out to reveal a bolt? There is no head on the one circled on the right?

Thanx in advance.

[fizz]

I have a rear disk guard waiting to be put on that replaces the calliper carrier too - there are wierd rubber grommet thingies on the existing carrier to take off - how do these come off?

Fizz

Once I get the rear wheel off, whats next? Here is a picture of the two black lugs - does the big one circled on the left just pull out to reveal a bolt? There is no head on the one circled on the right?

Thanx in advance.

Anyone able to help - been a couple of days and no replies - I'm almost going to post on advrider.com - but that feels like being a traitor

Thanx
fizz

[berglsmerg]

The caliper should slide off the pins and the grommets will stay with the caliper, you will need a oring pick or similar to pick the ends of the grommets off the locating grooves on the carrier pins.

[fizz]

Well, I decided to buy the Wolfman E10 saddlebags, as they were much cheaper than the competitor. I have had their enduro tank bag I used on my Husky for some time, and is great, so I know the material build quality is high.

These bad boys are the business. It fits perfectly on the bike. The bags are supported at the rear by two metal hooks that fits the fender perfectly - no drilling on this version.

There is an extra bag you can buy to put between the saddlebags on the seat, but for day use this extra item is overkill.

I wanted bags so I dont have to wear a backpack - I visit the chiropractor often enough.

To give you an idea of internal size of each side, I can put 4 * 1 litre MSR fuel bottles on 1 side alone (not that I will).

In the pictures I put a medium size bath towel in each side rolled up to fill the bags half way to get some bulk.






Regards
fizz

[fizz]

I will be breaking-in the bike on forest twin and single track for hrs 3-15 on a 2 day overnighter.

What PSI can I safely use front and rear with stock tires/tubes without getting pinch flats? The manual says 15 psi on both, but do people go lower?

Thanx in advance
Fizz